I think that professional wedding photographers have additional flashes triggered remotely to control the light which allows them to shoot with lower ISO. I would have been better with 1000 ISO or so, this ISO for modern FF cameras isn't a big deal so the end result looks real good. What I noticed in post that in many cases I underexposed but some adjustments of the raw files did the job. I eventually got this flash and and recently got a simple diffuser, I just finished shooting an event for my friends with around 100 people using, it was in a closed space with "adequate" lighting, I shot most of the event in 640 to 800 ISO with shutter speed of 160-200 and flash was on 1/32 power. Sony A7 kit, some legacy Minolta Maxuum and manual glass In fact I don't really understand how using auto ISO in M mode would be of any value? But anyway- to my question- is there are particular ISO that's best for this camera to manage noise while still offering acceptable shutter speeds for indoor scenes (thinking wedding reception, or low ambient light- no overhead)? I was used to 400 speed film back in the day but I don't know where this sensor equates with quality. Taking the camera out of auto ISO seems to be a must. I'm new to manual flashes so have been doing a lot of messing around. I have just started using the YN 560 III on my A7. Between the two, I spent less than I would have on any current Sony flash. I have both this and a 560-II and use each in different situations. It also supports HSS, which can be handy. You would need a cheap Sony adapter to use the old Sony/Minolta flash with the new shoe, and it can't swivel (bounce, yes, but swivel, no) but everything will work automatically. If you feel more comfortable with the camera controlling the flash, look at picking up a used HVL-36AM - or the equivilant from before Sony bought Minolta's camera division, the 3600HS(D). Either is a great, flexible flash for manual mode and/or off-camera shooting. If you don't need the remote receiver built into the III, you can save a few bucks with the II, which is otherwise basically the same. Just take a few test shots when you first enter your environment and ajust as needed. So this is a flash you use in full manual mode, setting the strength on the flash and controlling every aspect of the exposure on the camera.īut even if you haven't done that before, it's not too scary. And the camera won't compensate for the presence of the flash when in auto, a, or s mode. The camera won't be able to tell the flash how strong its burst needs to be for proper exposure. Just keep in mind that this is a manual flash.
0 kommentar(er)
